Monday 13 April 2009

An attractive small cellar of Wine


An attractive small cellar of Wine

A note from a New Zealand grower

We had a great summer season with very warm temperatures and beautiful dry weather. But then in March, shortly before our estimated vintage would start, we did get the odd patch of rain and in some spots, we did find some Botrytis. But all in all nothing to worry about. So we finally started with vintage on Wednesday 25th March 2009 with our Pinot Noir. Brix levels didn’t look that bad. Testing the odd berry in the vineyard mesuring between 18 and 22 Brix… and then after picking, destemming and filling the grapes into the fermentation tanks.. we had 22 Brix. So for the last two weeks they have been picking Pinot Noir and in the end had to rush through, because the weather turned so fine… Sugar levels increased to 25 Brix.

French Wine Industry

This a year many wines have fallen in price as the economy has slumped,and in France and Spain unemployment has risen. As efficient producers , the winesindustry has invested heavily in both quality and volume.But in these recessionary times the downturn if it lasts for several years could be devastating to the industry.But lets look more at the industry in Europe especially to date.
French wine ,as we know ,is produced in several regions throughout France, on over 800,000 hectares (over 2 million acres) of vineyards, and in a typical year between 50 and 60 million hectolitres of wine is produced, or some 7 to 8 billion bottles.[1] France thus has the world’s second-largest total vineyard surface (behind Spain) and competes with Italy for the position of having the world’s largest wine production. The earliest history of French wine goes back to the 6th century BC, and many of France’s regions count their wine-making history to Roman times. Over the last several hundred years, France has been the most influential country in the wine world: France is the source of more well-known grape varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon , Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah) and winemaking practices than any other country, the names of many French wine regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne are well-known throughout the world, and the style of top French wines have long been the benchmark for winemaking in most wine-producing countries of the world. French wine therefore plays an enormously important role in French identity and pride, and the combination of French wine and the equally influential French gastronomy has been an important one. Over the last decades, however, international competition in the wine industry has gotten much more fierce, and France has been challenged both by winemakers of the New World and by traditional wine-producing countries in southern Europe, while domestic consumption of wine has decreased. Since the French wine industry is very heterogeneous, and ranges from production of very cheap table wine to expensive First Growths and similar “luxury” wines, these changes have hit some very hard and others not at all: while some regions are plagued with constant overproduction of low-quality wines that can’t find buyers, and many smaller growers have an increasingly difficult time to make a living, some top producers are more profitable than ever before.
Two central concepts to better-quality French wines are the notion of terroir and the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. “Terroir wines” reflect their place of origin, which are therefore carefully specified on labels of French wine, usually in terms of which appellation the wine comes from. The appellation rules closely define which grape varieties and winemaking practices that are allowed in each of France’s several hundred geographically defined appellations, and those rules must be followed by all producers who wish to use an AOC designation for their wines.
History
The production of French wine has its origins in the 6th century BC, with the colonization of Southern Gaul by Greek settlers. Viticulture soon flourished with the founding of the Greek colony of Marseille. Regions in the south were licensed by the Roman Empire to produce wines. St. Martin of Tours (316-397) was actively engaged in both spreading Christianity and planting vineyards. During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and, more important, wine making knowledge and skills during that often turbulent period. Monasteries had the resources, security, and motivation to produce a steady supply of wine for both celebrating mass and generating income. During this time the best vineyards were owned by the monasteries and their wine was considered to be superior. Over time the nobility acquired extensive vineyards. However, the French Revolution led to the confiscation of many of the vineyards owned by the Church and others.
Despite some exports from Bordeaux, until about 1850 most wine in France was consumed locally. The spread of railroads and the improvement of roads reduced the cost of transportation and dramatically increased exports.
Quality levels and appellation system
A number of laws to control the quality of French wine were passed in 1935. They established the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system, which is governed by a powerful oversight board (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine - INAO). Consequently, France has one of the oldest appellation systems for wine in the world, and strictest laws concerning winemaking and production. Many other European systems are modelled on it. With European Union wine laws being modelled on those of the French, this trend is likely to continue with further EU expansion.
French law divides wine into four categories, two falling under the European Union’s Table Wine category and two falling under the EU’s Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation. The categories are:
Table wine:
* Vin de Table - Carries with it only the producer and the designation that it is from France* Vin de Pays - Carries with it a specific region within France (for example Vin de Pays d’Oc from Languedoc-Roussillon or Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne from Gascony.)WPSR:
* Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure (VDQS) - Less strict than AOC, not often used* Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) - Wine from a particular area with many other restrictions, including grape varieties and winemaking methods
* Today there are about 450 different wine appellations in France,[8] yet only 15% of all French wines enjoy the marketing benefits of AOC designations.Wine styles and grape varietiesAll common styles of wine - red, rosé, white (dry, semi-sweet and sweet), sparkling and fortified - are produced in France. In most of these styles, the French production ranges from cheap and simple versions to some of the world’s internationally most famous and expensive examples. The possible exception is French fortified wine, which tend to be relatively unknown outside France’s border.
A very large number of grape varieties are cultivated in France, including both internationally well-known and obscure, little noted local varieties. In fact, most of the so-called “international varieties” are of French origin, or became known and spread because of their cultivation in France. Since French appellation rules generally restrict wines from each region, district or appellation to a small number of allowed grape varieties, there are in principle no varieties that are commonly planted throughout all of France. Most varieties are therefore associated with a certain region, such as Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Syrah in Rhône, although there are varieties that are commonly found in two or more regions, such as Chardonnay in Bourgogne (including Chablis) and Champagne, and Sauvignon Blanc in Loire and Bordeaux. As an example of the rules, although climatic conditions would seem to allow good examples to be produced, there are no Cabernet Sauvignon wines from Rhône, Riesling wines from Loire, or Chardonnay wines from Bordeaux. (If such wines were produced they would have to be declassified to Vin de Pays or French table wine, and would not be allowed to display any appellation name or even region of origin.)
Traditionally, many French wines have been blended from several grape varieties rather than varietally pure. Varietal white wines have been, and are still, more common than varietal red wines.
In many respects, French wines have more of a regional than a national identity, as evidenced by different grape varieties, production methods and different classification systems in the various regions. Quality levels and prices varies enormously, and some wines are made for immediate consumption while other are meant for long-time cellaring. If there is one thing that most French wines have in common, then it is that most styles have developed as wines meant to accompany food, be it a quick baguette, a simple bistro meal or a full-fledged multi-course menu. More seldomly have the wines been developed or styled as “bar wines” for drinking on their own, or to impress in tastings already when young.
Labelling practices
The labels on a bottle of French wine often carry important information that can help the consumer evaluate its potential quality. Following are some potentially important phrases:
* “Mis en bouteille au…” chateau, domaine, or propriété indicate the wine was actually made at the same location as it was grown. “Au chateau” means that it was bottled at the chateau printed on the wine’s label, using grapes from vineyards around the chateau itself. “Au domaine” means that it was bottled “at the field,” while “à la propriété” means bottled “at the estate.” “Mis en bouteille dans nos caves” or “mis en bouteille dans nos chais” means that it was probably bottled in a different place than it was grown, using grapes traded and bought on the open market.* “Vigneron indépendant” is a special mark of independent wine-makers, to distinguish themselves from larger corporate winemaking operations and symbolize a return to the basics of the craft of wine-making. Bottles from independent makers carry a special logo that is usually printed on the foil cap covering the cork.
In previous times, France had no tradition of varietal labelling of wines, with the exception of wines from the Alsace region, with their Germanic influence. This was not just because wines were made blended, not even traditionally varietally pure wines (such as Chardonnay-based Chablis or Chenin Blanc-based Vouvray) displayed varietial names on the label. Varietal labelling was not even allowed under appellation rules. After New World wines made the varietal names “household names” on the export market in the later part of the 20th century, more French wines have started to use varietal labelling. In general, varietal labelling is most common for the Vin de Pays category. Some AOC wines in “simpler” categories are also allowed to display varietal names, but these wines are rather few. For most AOC wines, if varietal names are found, it will be in small print on a back label.
If varietal names are displayed, common EU rules apply:
* If a single varietal name is used, the wine must be made from a minimum of 85% of this variety.* If two or more varietal names are used, only the displayed varieties are allowed.* If two or more varietal names are used, they must in general appear in decreasing order.TerroirTerroir refers to the unique combination of natural factors associated with any particular vineyard. These factors include such things as soil, underlying rock, altitude, slope of hill or terrain, orientation toward the sun, and microclimate (typical rain, winds, humidity, temperature variations, etc.) No two vineyards, not even in the same area, have exactly the same terroir.
Wine regions of France
Alsace, a primarily white wine region in eastern France. Alsace is situated on river Rhine and on the border with Germany, a country with which it shares many grape varieties as well as a long tradition of varietal labelling.* Bordeaux, a large region on the Atlantic coast, which has a long history of exporting its wines oversea. Primarily a red wine region, the wine style of which is perhaps the world’s most imitated. The better Bordeaux wines are powerful, tannic and very long-lived, and include some of the most collected and traded fine wines of the world.Bordeaux also makes dry and sweet white wines and is the home to some of the world’s most famous sweet wines, from the Sauternes appellation.
* Burgundy or Bourgogne in eastern France is a region where red and white wines are equally important. Probably more terroir-conscious than any other region, Burgundy is divided into the largest number of appellations of any French region. Better Burgundies, both red and white, are often described as elegant wines, and the top wines from Burgundy’s heartland in Côte d’Or command some of the highest prices of any wines in the world. Two parts of Burgundy that are sometimes considered as separate regions are:o Beaujolais in the south, close to the Rhône valley region, where almost only red wines are made, in a fruity style that is usually consumed young.o Chablis halfway between Côte d’Or and Paris, where white wines are produced on chalky soil giving a more crisp and steely style than the rest of Burgundy.
* Champagne in eastern France, close to Belgium and Luxembourg, is the coldest of France’s major wine regions and home to the world’s most famous sparkling wine.
* Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean, the wines of which are primarily consumed on the island itself.
* Jura, a small region in the mountains close to Switzerland where some unique wine styles are produced.
* Languedoc-Roussillon, by far the largest region in terms of vineyard surface, and the region in which much of France’s cheap bulk wines have been produced. While still the source of much of France’s and Europe’s overproduction, the so-called wine lake, Languedoc-Roussillon is also the home of some of France’s most innovative producers, which usually try to combine traditional French wine and international styles and don’t hesitate to take lessons from the New World. Much Languedoc-Roussillon wine is sold as Vin de Pays d’Oc.
* Loire valley, primarily a white wine region which stretches over a large distance along the Loire river in central and western France, and were grape varieties and wine styles vary along the river. Four subregions are situated along the river:o Upper Loire is known as Sauvignon Blanc land, producing wines such as Sancerre AOC, but also consists of several VDQS areas.o Touraine produces cold climate-styled white wines (dry, sweet or sparkling) from Chenin Blanc in Vouvray AOC and red wines from Cabernet Franc in Bourgueil AOC and Chinon AOC.o Anjou-Saumur is similar to the Tourain wines with respect to varieties, but the dry Savennières AOC and sweet Coteaux du Layon AOC are often more powerful than their upstream neighbours. Saumur AOC and Saumur-Champigny AOC provides reds.o Pays Nantais is situated closest to the Atlantic, and Muscadet AOC produces white wines from the Melon de Bourgogne grape.
* Provence, in the southeast and close to the Mediterranean. Famous for rosé wines but also produces much red wine.
* Rhone valley, primarily a red wine region in southeastern France, along the Rhône river. The styles and varietal composition of northern and southern Rhône differ, but both parts compete with Bordeaux for the image as a traditional producer of powerful red wines.
* Savoy or Savoie, primarily a white wine region in the Alps close to Switzerland, where many grapes unique to this region are cultivated.
* South West France or Sud-Ouest, a somewhat heterogeneous collection of wine areas inland or south of Bordeaux. Some areas produce primarily red wines in a style reminiscient of red Bordeaux, while other produce dry or sweet white wines. Areas within Sud-Ouest include among other:o Bergerac and other areas of upstream Dordogneo Areas of upstream Garonne including Cahors. Areas in Gascony, also home the production of Armagnac, Madiran, Côtes de Gascogne, Côtes de Saint-Mont, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Tursan.o Bearn, such as Jurançono Basque Country areas, such as Irouléguy.
There are also several smaller production areas situated outside these major regions. Many of those are VDQS wines, and some, particularly those in more northern locations, are remnants of productions areas which were once larger.Trends france has traditionally been the largest consumer of its own wines. However, wine consumption has been dropping in France for 40 years. During the decade of the 1990s, per capita consumption dropped by nearly 20 percent. Therefore, French wine producers must rely increasingly on foreign markets. However, consumption has also been dropping in other potential markets such as Spain , Italy and Portugal.
The result has been a continuing wine glut, often called the wine lake, that has led to the distillation of wine into industrial alcohol as well as a government program to pay farmers to pull up their grape vines through vine pull schemes. A large part of this glut is caused by the re-emergence of Languedoc wine.
Immune from these problems has been the market for Champagne as well as the market for the expensive ranked or classified wines. However, these constitute only about five percent of French production.
French regulations in 1979 created simple rules for the then-new category of Vin de pays. The Languedoc-Roussillon region has taken advantage of its ability to market varietal wines.